Still in Darwin 2/4/2013

Today began as a normal touring day. Since we had been scheduled for the earliest tour yesterday afternoon, we had the earliest tour this morning. At 7:15 am we boarded our bus and were on our way to the Adelaide River for a boat ride that would bring us face to face with the jumping crocodiles. 

In route we passed through a number of the suburbs outside the central city. Our guide gave us an overview of the city of Darwin. It is the capital city of the Northern Territory and acts as the regional center of what is referred to as Australia’s “Top End”. It is situated on a harbor twice the size of Sydney’s and acts as a gateway to countries such as Indonesia and Asia. It is the headquarters of Paspaley, known for South Sea pearls. This area is also known as crocodile country. Designers and stores from all over the world come here to purchase pearls and crocodile skins and products. Having been almost entirely rebuilt twice, once due to Japanese air raids during World War II and again after being devastated by Cyclone Tracy in 1974, Darwin is one of Australia’s most modern capitals.

We reached the river, boarded the boat and set out to meet the salt-water crocs. Large pieces of raw meat were attached to a string on a pole that was held by the driver of the boat. The crocodile would approach, reach for the bait and eventually jump out of the water to almost full body length and grab the meat. These were large, fierce looking creatures with tremendous teeth. They swam right next to the boat and it was quite something to see them jump.

Being silly!
On the way back to the ship we saw two new sights. The wetlands were a landscape we had not yet seen and water buffalo were another animal to add to our list.

At noon the captain announced that he was saddened to officially inform us of the death of the lead singer. It had been verified that the death was from natural causes and the ship had been cleared to leave Australia. We would be leaving at the scheduled time, but due to recent events and the additional fact that the ship's speed was limited by one of the four engines being broken we would only have a three hour stop in Komodo and one of the days in Bali would be canceled. Extra engineers had joined the ship to work on the engine and representatives from Regent’s main office in Miami would be joining the ship in Bali.

The newest change in plans affected almost every departments of the ship. Guests had to decide on which of the two tours they had booked in Bali they would like to go. The Spa had to rearrange appointments since there would be more time at sea. The restaurants that require reservations were receiving calls because many guests were planning to eat in town when we had the overnight in Bali. The list continued. Needless to say the crew was working overtime and the guests were not happy.

We received no further information about the investigation, and will probably never know more, but the tragedy remained that a talented 24-year old woman had experienced an untimely death.

Darwin 2/3/2013

   

Today’s posting was going to be about the beautiful approach into Darwin and our river boat tour to see the jumping crocodiles. 

Little did I know that there would be other things to write about and a continuation of the segment of the cruise that has come to be known as “how many things can go wrong on one cruise”.

Since leaving Sydney we have waited in Moreton Bay while the remnants of a cyclone passed and had an emergency medical helicopter take a passenger off the ship. The greatest disappointment was that we missed both of the ports that would have allowed us to see the Great Barrier Reef, stopping only in Brisbane (in the rain) and Cooktown, where there was basically nothing to see or do. For the avid football fans there has been ongoing frustration that the expected option of viewing the Super Bowl would not be provided by the ship. For all of us, who have become so dependent on technology, the almost non-existence of an internet connection was a constant problem.

Today though, we experienced the most unbelievable saga of all. Our original itinerary stated that we would be arriving in Darwin at 9 am. Because of previous circumstances and the fact that we were fighting headwinds, we did not arrive until 1:30PM, cutting our time here in half. Upon arrival we all made our way to sign in for our tours, only to be told by the Captain that an announcement made earlier in the day had been the signal for a medical emergency on the ship and sadly, one of the crew had died.  We would learn much later that it was the woman who was the lead singer in the group of onboard entertainers, but at this moment we knew very little.

Many Australian policemen as well as a number of other people from the crime investigation bureau were waiting for our arrival in port. The authorities would not clear the ship and because an investigation was underway, no one was allowed off. There would be further announcements as more information became available.

Our room faced the pier so as we waited on our balcony, we could watch as various cars arrived and more people boarded the ship, as the body was removed from the ship and taken away, as the captain and various ship personnel came down the gangway to talk to people on the pier and as a policeman walked up and down the pier taking pictures of the outside of the ship. This whole time, in the distance we could see that the buses, drivers and guides who were lined up to take us on our tours were also sitting and waiting. We could have been watching a television program, but it was indeed, all too real.

At 4pm an announcement was made that the ship had been cleared only for the passengers. All of the tours had been canceled except for one. Buses would be available to take anyone who desired on a two-hour ride to see the highlights of the city. The shuttle bus into town would still be run, but all of the shops had closed at 3pm. Because of the ongoing investigation, the evening’s entertainment would be replaced by the showing of a movie and no further information could be given about the incident. We were scheduled to leave Darwin at 7pm.

We skipped the tour and headed downstairs to the ship's coffee bar for a snack. From this other side of the ship, the view was entirely different. The residents of Darwin were enjoying this beautiful weekend day on the water.

The tours returned and of course, the rumor mills were in full force. There was much speculation about what had happened but the only thing that was clearly known was that someone from the crew had died. As we all suspected, 7 pm came and went. We were informed that the investigation was still underway and until it was complete, the ship would not be cleared to leave Darwin. Our revised time to leave port was 1:00 pm tomorrow. 

Another announcement came later that all of the tours canceled this afternoon would now be available tomorrow morning and 225 seats had been secured at the local casino to watch the super bowl. Anyone desiring one of these seats or to go on a tour would need to come to the destination services desk to obtain new tickets. Well, you would have thought it was opening day at Harrods’s sale. Grown men and women were running down the stairs and racing each other down the halls.

Our day came to an end on what could have been an entirely different date and place. On the night we left Sydney, Lisa and Charlie struck up a conversation at dinner with the couple sitting next to us. The man explained that he was celebrating his 70^th birthday while onboard. We talked for a long while and the couple invited us to join them on the night of the birthday to have cocktails in their room and dinner at the ship’s gourmet restaurant. Tonight was the night of the birthday party.

We dressed in our nicest attire and entered one of the largest cabins on the ship. We were given a tour of the living room, bedroom, large closet, bathroom and indoor alcove that had a large bathtub in the corner, from which one could look out the two floor to ceiling windows. The couple served champagne and canapés and in total there were four couples in attendance. We made our way to the restaurant for what turned out to be a delicious meal and lively conversation. We talked about our families, where we lived, other cruises we had been on and the current situation onboard. We learned that we all split our year among various locations, but the hosts, who were charming and very unassuming, had the most homes and were the only ones to own a private jet. The dinner finished with the traditional birthday cake and singing of happy birthday. It had been a lovely evening, for which we were still not sure why we had been invited, but had thoroughly enjoyed.

The entire day had been surreal, but there was more to come tomorrow.

Continuing to cruise the Arafura Sea 2/2/2013

"Is the earth flat?"

Today is Ground Hogs Day and I do feel sympathy for the animal that will be pulled from its home into the cold and snow to determine how much longer winter will last. Here, there is no question as to if we will see our shadows and winter is not an issue. Our weather could not be nicer. The sun is shining, the skies are clear, the seas are calm and there is a slight breeze. Sitting on our balcony this morning, enjoying the view and listening to the water, I can only think that this is a scene I need to add to my memory for times I will want or need to recall it. This is a day for which to be grateful.

Today the only similarity between ‘Punxsutawney Phil' and me is that we both are near a form of water. Granted I don’t spend much time thinking about water but I have seen and will continue to see quite a lot of it. One of the things I like best about cruising are days when we are completely surrounded by water and the only sight in any direction is the sea. What we have seen yesterday and today reminds me of how calm and engaging the water can be. Beneath the surface exists an entire ecosystem that has been studied, photographed and documented extensively but the water that we are viewing has a life and a personality as well.

It can appear in different colors or can be affected by the weather conditions of the day as when the sun shines on it or the wind blows. It can be smooth as glass or fierce, with huge waves. We have been rocked to sleep with its rolling motion. We have taken delight in watching its different forms and marveled, as it has become a part of the overall scenery.

I "googled" the word water and found this explanation: "In its purest form, it's odorless, nearly colorless and tasteless. It's in your body, the food you eat and the beverages you drink. You use it to clean yourself, your clothes, your dishes and everything else around you. You can travel on it or jump in it to cool off on hot summer days. Many of the products that you use every day contain it or were manufactured using it. All forms of life need it and if they don't get enough of it, they die. Political disputes have centered around it. In some places, it's treasured and incredibly difficult to get. In others, it's incredibly easy to get and then squandered. What substance is more necessary to our existence than any other? Water."

To this I add that water is a symbol of purity and used when a baby is baptized or a woman enters the “mikva”. Water can heal, as when you soak a cut to release any infection. To partake in “watzu” can be emotionally healing. To sit and watch the water can be calming. To hear the thunderous sound and watch the spray of a waterfall can be exhilarating. As we leave for each tour and pick up a bottle of water we know that it can be refreshing and necessary for hydration.

So, when you drink that next glass of water, think about 'Punxsutawney Phil', who has predicted an early spring this year, and me, as I sit on my balcony, taking a mental picture of this glorious day and wondering where else I would have the time or reason to contemplate such things.

Cruise the Arafura Sea 2/1/2013

When we began to plan for this journey and even when we started it, February seemed like such a long time off. Now, it is with a certain amount of amazement that we begin the month.

We are continuing our travels to Darwin. Throughout the day we passed a variety of islands.Viewing these islands, with their varied characteristics, against a backdrop of different colored water, lighting and cloud formations made for many beautiful sights. 

In the afternoon there was a “county fair” onboard. The format was the same as Christmas day. Each department set up a booth at which passengers could win raffle tickets that would be used in a drawing for prizes at the end of the fair. Some booths were the same as on Christmas, while others had new tasks for participants to perform or at which they would compete. Today, I brought my camera.

County Fair at Sea

Putt putt through the beer bottles

Pin the Joey on the Kangaro

Two players, one wins the ticket

Roll the string to pull your camel

This evening we went to the passenger led Friday night services. This cruise in its entirety goes from Rome to Beijing. We are traveling on three segments. The first segment services were led by a Cantor from Melbourne, the second by a gentleman from Ft. Worth, Texas and now by a retired Rabbi from Boston. 





For dinner the weather was so nice and because we did not want to wait a half hour for a table inside the restaurant, we decided to eat on the outside deck. While eating our appetizers we began to feel a few raindrops, but nothing to be concerned about. Suddenly the skies opened  and it began to pour. Everyone on the deck rushed into the restaurant and we were all seated in an area that is normally closed in the evening. Luckily the main course had not yet been served. No harm was done to our dinner or to us and a nice evening was had by all.

Cooktown 1/31/2013

We have seen and learned a great deal on this trip along with making many observations. The first being that no matter how long your stay in a location there will always be things you just can’t see. Unplanned events occur, sometimes for good and sometimes not and there are things over which you have no control. Today we were reminded that the circumstances around which things happen could directly affect your impressions. Coming off visits to Whitsunday and Cairns and a visit to the Great Barrier Reef, Cooktown might have been an interesting place to stop, but as only the second stop on our ill-fated third segment, we arrived feeling that this was a port that could have been skipped if we had held back to see one of the previous two.

The ship’s newsletter described this stop, as a tranquil, historic location on the Cape York Peninsula. Inhabited by only nomadic Aboriginals for thousands of years prior to becoming a township, it was named in honor of Captain James Cook. In 1770 the famous English explorer and cartographer beached the HMB Endeavour on the banks of what he later called the Endeavour River, to undertake repairs after running aground on one of the many reefs that fringe this coastline.  In 1873 the government of Queensland decreed that the site of Cook’s landing would become a Far Northern seaport and the start of the trek to newly discovered gold fields near the Palmer River. Today, Cooktown is a small community that prides itself on having no traffic lights. It is a place to learn about the Aboriginal culture or Captain Cook and explore the rugged beauty of a pristine environment.

Our tour description read that we were to see “two of Cooktown’s most iconic sites: a mysterious heap of granite boulders known as Black Mountain and the Lion’s Den Pub, a fixture in the bush for more than 135 years”.  The Black Mountain is an enormous labyrinthine jumble of granite that originally formed beneath the earth’s surface 240 million years ago. Erosion gradually exposed the rocks, rounding their corners, creating dramatic, natural phenomena, with the rocks precariously stacked upon each other, seemingly defying gravity. While the granite appears to be black, the color is actually the result of oxidation and lichens clinging to its surface. The granite is pinkish-gray inside. The ancient Aborigines called this “the place of sphere” and held it sacred.

We were told that the trip to the mountain range would involve an hour of walking on uneven surfaces. The mountains were most unusual but our tour was in fact a ten-minute stop along the road to take pictures with the mountain in the distance. 

The stop at the pub give us a chance to have a local beer and view the quirky decorations, including a Minnesota Vikings hat hanging near the bar, but both stops were disappointing. Perhaps we should have gone on the tour led by the Aboriginal elder or the one that went to the botanical gardens that featured plants unique to this area. Perhaps this stop just couldn’t compare to what we had just missed.

 

The best parts of the day were unexpected. At the Pub we saw the popularly referred to ‘Cannon Ball Tree’. Not only is the fruit as large, round and heavy as its namesake, but when ripe and falling to the ground, it often does so with loud and explosive noises. The fruit, bark and beautiful flowers of this unusual tree have by long tradition been used for medicinal purposes.

The second surprise was the thunderstorms that began to develop as 

our ship left port and Mother Nature put on an amazing show.

Continuing to cruise the Coast of Australia 1/30/2013

Two days are necessary to get to Cooktown. It has been a quiet day that has given me time to show some additional photos of the animals we saw at the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary in Brisbane.

Mother koala and baby

nap time

Jon feeding wallabies

Lisa feeding kangaroo

emu

This kangaroo thinks he's a coach on a baseball team

kookaburra sits.......

How about a snack?

Mother holding baby

Cruise the coast of Australia 1/29/2013

What a difference a day can make. We are still at sea, but today we could be in the Caribbean. The skies are clear, the sun is shining, the temperature is warm and a slight rocking motion this morning turned into calm seas. Storms are behind us and we continue our journey.

Mother nature provided sights to begin and end our day. This morning we were told that the brown substance floating in the water was an algae, the same as one mentioned in the journals of Captain Cook. It is a substance that absorbs carbon monoxide and is thus a useful substance in the seas. 

 

Tonight we had the most amazing sunset. On the horizon the sun appeared to be an orange pancake, and when it set the sky lit up as if on fire. Storms, algae, amazing sunsets…we are continually reminded of the power and the beauty of nature.

Onboard there is great disappointment among the passengers that both stops that would have allowed us to see the Great Barrier Reef were canceled. There is speculation as how this could have been avoided if we had stayed longer in Moreton Bay or if we had canceled the next stop of Cooktown. It seems everyone has an opinion, but on a ship, the captain has the responsibility for the passenger’s safety and comfort and it is only his opinion that matters.

The pool deck was busier today than any other day we have been onboard. This was one of the nicest days we have had in a while and people were happy to be able to leave their cabins and enclosed areas to be outside.

Today we played bingo. It has certainly changed since the last time we were on a ship. All of the numbers used to be placed into a drum that was spun, before one number at a time fell out and was announced. Now everything is done electronically. There is a large screen on which all the bingo numbers are displayed. In the lower left corner is a picture of the number just called and on the bottom right hand corner is a picture of how a winning card would look for the particular game being played. The caller pushes a button on a laptop computer. The number is called as it appears on the screen and lights up in its proper place among all of the numbers. When a bingo is called, the dealer enters the number of the card into the computer and a picture of the card appears on the screen so that everyone is able to see if the card has been marked properly for the bingo. 

During the game, no one asks if a certain number has been called, for they have only to check the screen. No numbers ever fall out of a drum anymore. No one has to explain how an “X” or a “4 corners” card would look because they can find the displayed picture and no one has to call out the numbers on their card to make sure that they do indeed have a bingo.

The world is quickly changing, but we never thought that this would include the world of bingo.